How to Celebrate Dia de Muertos like Disney's "Coco"
Dia de Muertos is a once in a lifetime holiday to experience, bursting with color and overflowing with cultural significance. Just watch Disney’s “Coco” and you will understand Dia de Muertos as a celebration of family, and that the most important thing is to not forget those who came before you. Another thing to notice in “Coco” is the bright and colorful ofrendas and the dazzling parade of marigolds that are best experienced in smaller cities in Mexico. Experiencing Dia de Muertos in cities in the middle of Mexico such as Morelia, Guanajuato, and Leon, I can tell you that they get dressed up to celebrate just like the movie. Marigolds line doorways, flower crowns are hand woven, faces are painted, and entire streets are closed down to make way for evening festivities.
While all of this is magical and sounds like a dream come true (hint: it totally is), it can also be a logistical nightmare if you don’t know where to go and what to expect. Having experienced Dia de Muertos in a few of the towns that no doubt inspired the movie “Coco”, which have some of the richest traditions this time of year, I am going to layout a foolproof plan to survive your first ever Dia de Muertos, and to walk away in love with Mexico and its heritage.
So, what is Dia de Muertos?
A lot of people see this holiday as an opportunity to have their face painted as a skull, wear larger than life outfits, and have fun taking pictures for Instagram. While these things are fun and definitely have their place, this holiday is so much more than that. Let’s first take a look at all of the symbolism.
Dia de Muertos, literally translated to “day of the dead”, is a day where passed on souls make their way back to the physical earth from their spiritual realm to visit and check in on family members who are still alive. I like to think of it as a big family reunion with everybody you have ever known and who people in your family still tell funny stories about at every meal.
To help those spirits find their way back to the earth, marigolds are laid everywhere. Doorways are covered by archways built out of the fragrant flower, houses have elaborate entrances flanked by the orangey gold that are replaced regularly to keep them looking and smelling fresh, and ofrendas are set up in businesses and homes adorned with photos and multitudes of marigolds to honor the dead. It is believed that both the fresh fragrance and the beautiful color of the marigold is enough to capture the heart and attention of the spirits, and that it will help guide the spirits back to earth for just one night.
As mentioned above, there are ofrendas, or displays set up by family members as an offering to loved ones who have passed. Tables are often set up in family businesses or in private homes that display large photos of deceased family members along with a few of their favorite things. Items such as sweet breads, conchas, chocolate, a favorite kind of lace, or even tequila (hell, MOST had bottles of tequila) are all proudly set out on a table to welcome the family members back for the evening, and to remind them that their relatives on earth are thinking of them.
The most popular photo we see from Dia de Muertos, however, is that of people with painted faces to look like skeletons or skulls. Viewed as a fun way to dress up today, children even run around on the street with painted faces and Halloween costumes on, a lot of times asking for candy, much like an American Halloween. However, a quick review of the history of Dia de Muertos will reveal that there is a message behind this face paint.
Keep in mind that Mexico was occupied by a few European countries throughout its history, and there were people who conformed to that rule, and those who did not. A divide was created when aristocrats who chose to conform to the European rule opted to wear the clothing, adopt the mannerisms, and behave in a way that reminded the rest of Mexico of the Europeans who occupied their country. People grew tired of the way in which the Mexican aristocracy acted, often seen as trying to become European and ditch their Mexican roots. From this socioeconomic and cultural divide, “Catrina” was born, or the original socio-political cartoon that depicted a Mexican woman wearing European style clothing with a skull for a face. The meaning of the cartoon was to tell the Mexican aristocracy that they may look European on the outside, but deep down inside, and even after they die, they will always be Mexican at their core. The Catrin and Catrina image was passed down for decades, and has become associated with Dia de Muertos, and is often a symbol of Mexican pride in tradition and heritage.
Where are the best places to see Dia de Muertos celebrations?
You really couldn’t pick a better time of year to visit Mexico, as the weather is a little milder, aka not as hot, and it seems the whole country gets in on the festivities. Marigolds will be everywhere, and just about every town has a parade honoring the dead. I was given the incredible opportunity to visit the middle of Mexico with family, experience local traditions, and stay where family played and celebrated as children. So, let’s dive into those cities!
Morelia
A gorgeous town with serious European charm, Morelia is the capital of the state of Michoacan. Easy to get to, you can access Morelia by flying into Leon, and making an easy drive for 2 hours through gorgeous hills and rivers, enjoying the Mexican countryside as you go. Known for the pink brick and stone that makeup the buildings in the city center, Morelia is also known for wide sweeping streets, and quiet alley ways made for the perfect kiss. When it came to being decked out for Dia de Muertos, Morelia came in first place for me. Large boards were set up on a closed down road near the famous aqueducts of Morelia, and were covered in marigolds, meant to be a backdrop for pictures for anybody passing by. Entire fountains had marigolds planted around them just for the holiday, and the main square closed down on Saturday night to showcase ofrendas created by local families. The ofrendas ranged from colorful rice and legumes creating pictures of beloved characters and family names, to entire dioramas set up to fully tell the story of a person’s life, telling us they were a fisherman, or they loved the church more than anything in this world.
The ofrendas are always busy, so be prepared to move slowly and in a crowd, but know that this will not stop you from seeing every single display. People really take their time to take it all in, and make sure everybody has an equal chance to see everything.
Saturday nights are also special this time of year because with the ofrendas as the backdrop, the city puts on a weekly firework show that tells the history of the Morelia Cathedral. Starting at 9pm, the show is an impressive display with music and choreographed fireworks, lighting up the sky and the pink bricks of the cathedral.
Where to eat:
Churreria Artisanal Las Ramblas
Ave Francisco I. Madero Ote 619, Centro Historico de Morelia
Some of the best churros I have ever had, made fresh to order. The owner is awesome, and be prepared to take a picture with your churros for the company Instagram, as he LOVES meeting visitors!
Ave Camelinas 2653, Col Las Camelinas
Serving basic Mexican food with a delicious twist. While you can find standard tacos and quesadillas here, the real treat is in the diablitos, or the “Little Devils”. Tacos with steak, cheese, and guacamole, they melt in your mouth, and you can down about 3 in one sitting. Make sure to order with some grilled onions and a Mexican Coke for the full effect.
Multiple Locations
Want a french-like breakfast to set your day of deliciously? Then head to Origo! Everything was wonderful here, from yummy, thick coffee lattes, to indulgent pastries, this place is a must eat for anybody in the area!
Where to stay:
Ignacio Zaragoza no 90, Col Centro
One of the most beautiful hotels I have ever stayed in, Hotel de la Soledad offers up comfort unlike anywhere I have stayed in Mexico. One of the select hotels for the Small Luxury Hotels group, Hotel de la Soledad has plush beds, gorgeous singing birds that line the entryway of the main vestibule and sing all day, and a gorgeous display of marigolds and other local handicrafts that are kept fresh daily throughout Dia de Muertos.
Leon
Quiet, beautiful, little Leon was such a treat to start our Dia de Muertos trip. Not a big spot among tourists, this small town had some of the friendliest people on our trip. A group of teens actually saw me standing in the town square, and came up and asked me if I needed help or for them to translate Spanish for me since not a lot of Americans come around their town!
The best part about celebrating Dia de Muertos in Leon is how intimate the celebrations are. There is a small market that is set up every night of the week of Dia de Muertos where local artisans make the drive into town to sell their crafts in the “big city”. Tents take over the town square, and some of the best locally made items can be found here at an incredible deal.
There is also an attention to the arts during Dia de Muertos that is so fun and colorful, and made me so happy to just walk around the square every night. Graffiti is allowed and encouraged on any plywood that covers up construction areas. Beautiful hand painted catrinas and catrins cover the wood, and serve as a reminder of the loved ones who had passed in the previous year. Also impressive is the amazing ofrendas that are created for the fallen police officers of the city. Housed in the Municipal Palace of Leon, full mannequins are dressed up as officers, and rice and beans are used to create intricate pictures that depict the officers themselves, or the story of their lives. Not only were we allowed into the Municipal Palace without paying anything, but the security guard actually shepherded us in, excited for us to see the work of locals who wanted to pay respects to the officers.
Want a quintessential Mexican experience that isn’t necessarily related to Dia de Muertos? After dark, head to Plaza del Mariachi, and hire your very own Mariachi band for as long as you want. Don’t be alarmed when you pull up and a hoard of mariachi players mob your car and run alongside it, some holding the handles. They are simply claiming your car and letting the other bands know, “Hey, this is our car, back off!” There will be a few bands all hanging out in the plaza, and they will vie for the attention of every car that comes onto the street, but it is friendly competition. In general prices are affordable, a couple hundred pesos per half hour, and all of your favorite mariachi songs can be played by the band. Don’t know any songs? Just tell them to play their favorites, and you’re in for a great experience that most tourists could never dream of.
Where to eat:
Patinadores 106, Punto Verde
Seriously delicious breakfast, this place had my favorite chilaquiles of the trip. A gorgeous setting on an outdoor patio, you are surrounded by a giant tree and tree lined streets. Sip silky smooth cappuccinos and coffees while noshing on freshly made brunch that rivals brunch in the US. Make sure to grab a dessert from the bakery, as that is the crown jewel of Las Moras.
Calle Calz de los Heroes 404
Want a fun place to get good food that is served family style? Check out Panteon Taurino. Designed to look like a bull fighting ring, diners are surrounded by photos of all the greatest bull fighting legends, and an arena lined with bottles of alcohol stare back at you like spectators in the ring. You can even hire a mariachi band to serenade your table for 150 pesos per song ($7 USD).
San Fernando 107, La Martinica
Delicious homemade Mexican food that is representative of middle Mexican cooking. The food here was amazing, and the ofrenda set up for Dia de Muertos was incredible. This spot also turns into a theatre in the evening, so I suggest you come here for lunch, unless you want to take in a production!
Where to stay:
Portal Bravo 14, Centro
Overlooking the main centro in Leon, this hotel is a great, cheap option for a place with the perfect location, and is a quiet place to rest. Running around $40 per night, make sure to book a room with a balcony view of the main square, where you can take in the traditional topiary designs that are unique to Leon, and have a bird’s eye view to the colorful lights of the evening sky. An added bonus? They offer a great breakfast where you can try my new favorite Mexican breakfast item: scrambled eggs with crushed up tortilla chips cooked inside!
Guanajuato City
Guanajuato is a city that is still flying under the radar, yet is so colorful and vibrant there is no way it could possibly stay that way. Guanajuato was my absolute favorite to see the colors and customs of Dia de Muertos, and was such a great stop on my tour of middle Mexico.
Colorful homes and businesses line the streets of Guanajuato, and invite people in to celebrate Dia de Muertos. Head to the University of Guanajuato to see the gorgeous steps that lead up to the main hall of the college. The students come together the day of Dia de Muertos to decorate the famous steps, and pay homage to fallen students and their culture. Flower petals, candles, rice, beans, woodchips, and other materials are used to tell stories through pictures of Mexican heritage, and paint a lovely scene for passersby to enjoy. At night, a hotel across the street from the school shines a light on the steps, and people can walk up and down the steps, viewing them up close to see the incredible amount of work and planning that went into the giant ofrenda.
Not only do the steps show just how dedicated to Dia de Muertos Guanajuato is, but you can also head to the underground tunnels of the city that are usually used by cars as an underground highway system. The city closes down a stretch of the tunnels (check which tunnel is closed that year by visiting the city website), and set up food stalls, handicrafts stalls, and a small movie theatre that features Mexican made movies. The tunnels turn into one big party the whole week of Dia de Muertos, and is a great place to see the colors and fun of Dia de Muertos!
Lastly, make sure to be out on the streets of Guanajuato City the night of Dia de Muertos. The city lights up and comes alive to celebrate this momentous occasion that only happens once a year on November 1st. Mariachi bands wander the streets singing and playing with gusto and love for their city. Clubs and bars spill out onto the streets, blasting music and inviting people in to drink and dance. Teatro Juarez puts giant papier mache Catrin and Catrina heads out on its steps, and people line up to get their picture with the amazing displays of art and patience. All of this will look and sound familiar, and rightfully so as this celebration was the main inspiration for the afterlife celebrations in “Coco”. Make sure to get a picture with the Jorge Negrete statue in the middle of town, and your “Coco” inspired trip will be complete!
Found the Jorge Negrete statue in Guanajuato. Aren’t you getting serious “Coco” vibes here?!?
Where to eat:
Paseo de la Presa, Barrio de la Presa
Delicious little spot that sits outside the main part of town. Enjoy dinner on the front porch, or sit in the powerfully colorful dining room next to the kitchen. You will find traditional Mexican food at Mexico Lindo y Sabroso, and the food here is authentic and delicious. What this restaurant lacks in modernity and Instagram aesthetic, it more than makes up for in flavor and authenticity.
Campanero 4 Puente, Del Campanero
Guanajuato City oozes romance, and Santo Café is no different. Arrive here 20-minutes before opening to get the best seats in the house, a coveted table on the bridge that overlooks the alleyway it crosses. Once you have secured your seat, sit back, and enjoy a deliciously creamy cappuccino, and watch as people pass underneath your seats, and a gentleman sits below you, playing music on his accordion. This is a can’t miss café in the city center, and would be the perfect start to a day of museum hopping and photo taking.
Jdn de la Union 3, Zona Centro
A beautiful restaurant right across the street from Teatro Juarez, Casa Valadez is a great place to rest, and get great Mexican food. Mostly traditional food, what’s served here is what you would get from your grandmother’s kitchen, but comes beautifully plated and in a great ambiance. I highly recommend the empanadas and the sopa de fideo (tomato based soup with noodles, avocado, and tortilla strips). Both were incredibly delicious, but didn’t weigh me down for the rest of the day.
Where to stay:
Paseo de la Presa 168, Barrio de la Presa
A beautiful hotel set outside the city center, you will be close enough to be within 15 minutes walking distance to downtown Guanajuato, but also far enough away to get restful sleep. With a stunning view of the mountains, and grounds covered in naturally found trees, flowers, and bushes, Hotel Quinta Las Acacias is a serene dream in a colorful and busy Guanajuato. Set up in an old house with all of the original woodwork and detail, the service here is impeccable, and the rooms reflect more of a homestay than a hotel. Pass by singing birds everyday as you come and go, and grab an amazing breakfast that is nothing short of purely Mexican.
The middle of Mexico is rarely traveled by tourists despite the vibrant colors and grandiose celebrations had for Dia de Muertos. If you find yourself wanting to live out all of your “Coco” dreams of singing “Remember Me” while painting your face like a Catrina, Guanajuato City, Leon, and Morelia are amazing places to hang your hat, and see just how grand and magical Dia de Muertos can be.