The Perfect 5-Day Itinerary for Corsica
Often tacked onto a trip to southern France, Corsica should not be missed when you are nearby. Corsica is an interesting dichotomy of rugged, untouched landscapes, and glamorous, posh port cities, all wrapped up in a history of changing powers and fights for ownership. With all of this in mind, it would be easy to spend weeks on end in Corsica exploring every small town, diving into the culture, food, and history of the French island with Italian sounding names and peculiar spellings of words. However, below I have drawn up a 5-day itinerary to maximize your time in Corsica, and feel like you have gotten the full experience of this Tyrrhenian Island sandwiched between France and Italy.
There are a few ways to get to Corsica, either by ferry or by plane, both coming with their advantages and disadvantages. On average, the ferry from Nice to Bastia costs $120 round trip per person WITHOUT reserving space for a car or a personal cabin. And while these may not seem like things you would want or need on a ferry, the ferry trip from Nice to Corsica takes 15 hours, so opting to increase your ticket price for a private cabin may be the best bet. On the other hand, a flight from Nice to Bastia usually costs $225 per person, and the flight time is 1 hour. Both can drop you in Bastia, a larger city in Corsica, and a great jumping off point for a 5-day trip to Corsica.
DAY 1
Once you have arrived, pick up a rental car at the airport (we rented from Hertz and had a great experience), and make your way to the town of Saint Florent, which will serve as your base for 2 days. Check in to your hotel, Hotel La Roya, a 4-star Small Luxury Hotels property, and make your first stop for lunch. We really enjoyed La Maison des Pizzas for a quick and cheap lunch.
Cost: 15-20 euro per person
Hours of Operation: 12 pm-10:30 pm Monday-Friday, 12 pm to 11:00 pm Saturday and Sunday
Time Spent: 45 mins-1 hour
After you have eaten enough pizza to necessitate unbuckling your pants, head to the top of the Citadel of Saint Florent. There is free public parking around one side of the structure, and this is the best place to start. There isn’t anything to see at the Citadel itself, what was once a beacon on a hill for the fishermen of the village in the mid 1400’s is now a closed up and not toured stone building with beautiful views of the ocean. Since there isn’t anything to see here, and no tours or structures you can enter, spend minimal time here.
Cost: Free
Hours of Operation: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
Time Spent: 30 mins max
Pro tip: a lovely idea for lunch would be to check out the local SPAR grocery store in downtown Saint Florent, grab everything to make a gorgeous charcuterie board, and eat it while sitting near the edge of walls of the citadel, looking out over the bright blue water.
Snake down the hill back toward La Maison des Pizzas. While it may seem as though you are backtracking, the town is so small that this small walk will be great after a day of travel and driving. Explore the small cobblestone streets of Saint Florent. There are cute shops selling clothing and jewelry towards the bottom of the hill that have unique pieces at reasonable prices. Shop around a bit, and then head back to your car in the lot at the top of the hill.
A great way to finish the first afternoon in Corsica is to hang out on the free sunbeds at the Hotel La Roya, and to take your first dip in the ocean. The beach is calm, the water is warm, and the area is extremely quiet. There are no beach clubs, no major party areas, so this is the perfect spot for getting in a jetlag catnap, and taking a refreshing dip in the water.
After your first day in Corsica, walk along the beach back into the main town of Saint Florent. That’s the best thing about using Saint Florent as your home base – everything in town, when you’re tired and hungry, is within a 10-minute walk from Hotel La Roya! Walk to the Port of Saint Florent and pick from any of the restaurants that sit along the port. We really enjoyed our meal at L’Olivier. The burrata salad was fresh and chock full of different ingredients like pasta and pine nuts, the pasta was light and creamy, making for the perfect dinner, and the location is perfect, overlooking the port and the boats that fill it.
Cost: 18-30 euro per person
Hours of Operation: 12-2pm, 7-10:30pm daily
Time spent: 90+ mins
After dinner, walk along the dock to a gelateria named La Gelateria St Flo. Small and tucked away off the main drag, this had some of the best gelato we had on our trip, with flavors that are fresh and prices that are reasonable. Not to mention, look at how cute the outside of the shop is!
Cost: 2+ euros per person
Hours of Operation: 1-7pm daily
Time spent: 15 minutes
DAY 2
After a great night’s sleep, get up early to start a longer day of driving and sightseeing by walking into town once again and enjoying a quick French breakfast at Bar Le Col D’Amphore. This spartan café is more than enough for an adequate breakfast, serving coffee, pastries, and pressed juices. While you will not find major American style breakfast here, enjoy your morning people watching in the main square while sipping a cappuccino.
Cost: 10 euro per person
Hours of Operation: 9am -10pm daily, 9am-2:30pm and 4pm-10pm Sunday
Time spent: 60 mins
Now that you are caffeinated and energized for the day, you will be in for quite a bit of driving, so wear your comfy pants and grab some snacks for the car! The activity of the day will be visiting small, hilltop villages of Corsica, specifically those villages which belong to the Balagne region. There are numerous tiny villages that are perched high up in the hills of northern Corsica, but the three I have mentioned below are among my favorites I visited, and all doable for a visit in one day.
The first stop will be a small village named Pigna. Parking is once again free (a recurring theme throughout all of Corsica), and is right at the entrance to the village. As you approach Pigna, you will see a large, well paved road that overlooks the town. This road will likely have many cars parked perpendicular along it facing the town, so pull into an open spot.
Once parked, stroll down to the town and meander through the cobblestone streets. The cool thing about Pigna is that it is a true artists town – here you can find music shops, jewelry makers, watercolor painters, and a shop that sells items that are locally made and curated. Pigna is also incredibly quiet. The only sound is from visitors trekking up and down the alleys, exploring the nooks and crannies of the town. People even whisper in shops, and photo enthusiasts quietly search for photogenic corners of the town, of which there are plenty.
Cost: Free
Hours of Operation: Sunrise to sunset
Time spent: 1-1.5 hours, 1 hour 15-minute drive from Hotel La Roya
As you exit Pigna and hop back in your car, set your GPS to direct you to the next town, Sant’Antonio, aka my favorite place we visited in Corsica! This drive will be much shorter, taking only 15 minutes to make the drive. Please note that Sant’Antonio is at the very top of one of the highest hills in the area, so there will be one large hairpin turn. The roads are paved, but the fit for 2 cars going opposite directions is tight – all of this to say, please make sure you are paying attention to the road!
Once again, take time to wander the town of Sant’Angelo, and make sure to bring your camera to capture your time there. Sant’Antonio was voted one of the most beautiful villages in all of France. The views of the ocean from the top are incredible, and the village itself is quaint, well kept, and clearly beloved by the locals.
The village is known for lemons, but I found something even better…a sweets shop! After you feel like you have taken enough photos and have explored the village to its fullest, walk toward the entrance of the village, and find a sweets shop named Au Petit Biscuit – you may even be able to find it by smell. Out front you will see a vat of roasting nuts that will be candied and sold in the shop. Stop in, buy some candied nuts, and don’t miss out on grabbing any one of the amazing baked cakes. I had an apricot cake on the back patio of the shop, and it was so good, I bought another for my hotel room that night.
At this point in the day, you will likely be very hungry, so head up a set of steep steps and through a stone portico to lunch at the fabulous and perfectly situated A Casa Corso.
Pro tip: Have Hotel La Roya call in advance of this touring day and reserve a table for lunch at A Casa Corsa.
This restaurant is run by two women, one in front of house, and one cooking. The fare is simple, salads, omelets, and charcuterie, but the flavor is incredible. I had a simple salad of lettuce tomatoes, olives, and onion, but it was the best salad I have ever had. Tables fill up fast here, and a reservation is imperative to ensure a meal!
Cost: Free, Parking is 3 euros
Hours of Operation: Sunrise to sunset
Time spent: 2 hours, 15-minute drive from Pigna
After filling up on candied nuts and a fresh salad in Sant’Antonio, you will be driving to the final village of Balagne, Speloncato. While a short drive, Speloncato is one of the least visited towns we saw in the day. There is minimal parking, though it is free, and it is right at the center of this small town. Make your way into town, and when you see the main square and the water fountain, you have found the parking area – you will likely see other cars from the towns people, simply park next to them. Another thing of note is that when you enter town, there will be a short, marble spire that lists all the names of the lives lost on WWII. Stop and take a moment to read the names, and understand how much the war affected the villagers of Speloncato, and those who lost loved ones.
Once parked, walk northeast on the road in which you came, and you will see a giant church. This is Chjesa San Michele, and features a beautiful interior and a picturesque bell tower. Make sure to take plenty of photos of the exterior as I found that to be the most interesting and intriguing part of the church.
After visiting Cjesa San Michele, head due west, and climb A Cima, a tall hill in town. Hiking footwear is entirely unnecessary – I hiked this hill in sandals and a skirt and had no issues. This hill has both a statue of Jesus on top, as well as a view of the entire valley below, so making the trek to the top is worth the 15-minute climb. Snake your way back down to your car through all of the alleys of the town, taking the long way back. After exiting Speloncato, drive back to Hotel La Roya.
Cost: Free
Hours of Operation: Sunrise to sunset
Time spent: 1 hour, 30-minute drive from Sant’Angelo
After a long day of sightseeing, you will be famished, and I have just the place for you. Ask Hotel La Roya to make a reservation for you at Rosajola. Easily one of the most romantic places to eat in all of Corsica, this place is well worth the reservation…and is one of the hardest places to get into for dinner!
The owner, Phillipe is the maître de restaurant, the chef, and the waiter, running back and forth greeting guests, taking orders, serving guests, and interacting with everybody. There are only 4 tables in the entire restaurant, which is merely a house off the side of the road, and the backyard has a charming awning covering said 4 tables and lawn art, looking out over a valley in the distance.
The menu is small, but adequate, catering something for everybody. Start with a charcuterie board, tasting everything from wild boar salami, to cheeses local to Corsica. There is a variety of flavors on the board, soft cheese, sharp cheese, herby meats, and is a great start to the meal. For your main, the way to go is the steak and frites. You can watch the steak being cooked over an open fire in the back of the house, and the meat can be cooked to order.
Pro tip: Be very clear with how you like your meat cooked. Steak in France tends to be cooked rarer, so make sure you are aware of how red you want your meat to be.
Make sure to also order the frites to go on the side. Hand cut fries are roasted in oil, and are an amazing addition to the meal. Soak in the views as the sun sets in the distance, and savor the wine of the meal.
DAY 3
Check out of Hotel La Roya, and set out to drive clear across the island to a smaller seaside town called Bella Riva, an hour and 20-minute drive away. You will stay at Riva Bella Thalasso & Spa, a clothing optional beachside resort that features both camping and cottages. Since you will have driven for over an hour, spend the day at the beach, which is just steps from every single cottage on the property. The beach has soft, white sand, and is quiet, the only sound being the breeze and the ocean.
After a day in the sun, opt to either make dinner in your cottage (they all have full kitchens, and there is a grocery store nearby), or head into town to go to dinner. We liked U Caradellu as it had a basic menu, and was close by.
DAY 4
Make sure to eat breakfast in preparation for day 4, as it will be a big day! Set out to explore Bonifacio, a glamorous port city at the tip of the bottom of Corsica, and a must-see city. With views of Sardinia, a serpentine port that is regularly navigated by yachts, and well-preserved historical sites, Bonifacio is a wonderful day trip, and a great way to explore Corsican history.
Make sure to leave early, and make it to Bonifacio no later than 10 am as parking lots fill up fast. The best parking spot can be found right next to the Bonifacio marina, and next to a gas station. In your GPS, enter the name of the business “First Stop Etablissements Botti Bonifacio”, as the parking lot is next door to this car repair shop and Esso gas station. See map below:
Walk to the marina immediately south of the parking lot…you won’t be able to miss it! From here, you will notice a line forming for a trolley on the road next to the marina – you will want to board this trolley to get to the top of the city and explore the best parts of Bonifacio. Luckily, the trolley runs every 30 minutes, and costs only 6 euros per person.
When you reach the top of Upper Town and the train comes to stop, hop off and walk directly to the Escalier du Roy d’Aragon.
Please note: To participate in the Escalier du Roy d’Aragon, you MUST be wearing closed toe shoes.
The stairs ascend/descend at a 45-degree angle along the side of a cliff, and helmets must be worn at all times as the clearance for your head is pretty low in some areas. Physical fitness is necessary for this trek (I had to stop multiple times on the way up the stairs to catch my breath…as did everybody else), but the spectacular views of bright turquoise water are well worth it. There are a few boat tours that will drive up alongside the stairs, but nothing beats climbing them yourself as people did when they were built, while carrying buckets of water for the town. You can also decide if you believe they were dug out in one night by soldiers during a siege…this seems incredible to me!
Cost: 6.5 euros per person, included entrance to the Bastion de l’Etendard
Hours of Operation: Daily 10 am-5:30 pm
Time spent: 90 minutes
From this experience, you will be good and sweaty, so walk to the northeast corner of the Upper Town and grab a bite to eat at Le Bastion. One of the top-rated restaurants in the town, this spot was about half full the entire time we ate, and no reservation was required. They are especially known for their Corsican aubergine starter with marinara sauce (really yummy!), and their lasagna with beef (filling and delicious, comes with a side salad and fries).
Fun tip: There is a delicious beverage in Corsica called “Or” and it tastes exactly like Sprite, but is a sparkling lemonade. It is very refreshing and light for the hot days you’ll encounter in Corsica.
Next up, you will want to head back into the thick of things and take a tour of the
Citadel of Bonifacio. Make sure to climb through all of the lookout points, especially the ones facing the entrance to the harbor. You will get a stunning view of the small space boats have to navigate to reach the city, and a bird’s eye view of the lower town. Once used as a military fortress, the citadel now is an awesome spot to wander around, and take in Bonifacio in all of its glory.
You will also want to visit the Bastion de l’Etendard, the location where the military used to house all of its artillery. This is a great place to visit towards the end of the day as you are able to go in shaded, enclosed rooms, and explore tunnels and rooms dug into the earth in the Bastion…you can even see Sardinia from the top of the Bastion! Make sure to exit via the Porte de Genes, a medieval drawbridge into the Bastion, with some of the most beautiful views of Bonifacio…perfect for a photo op!
Cost: 6.50 euros per person, included entry to Les escaliers du Roy d’Aragon
Hours of Operation: Daily 10 am-5:30 pm daily
Time spent: 2 hours
After touring Bonifacio, make the drive back to Riva Bella, and enjoy a beachside dinner from the veranda of your cottage.
Day 5
Arrange for an early morning spa treatment at Riva Bella, and allow the knots and sore muscles accumulated from all of the trekking around Corsica to be worked out by skilled professionals. There is an abundance of available treatments and rooms in which to indulge in wellness regimens, from seawater circuits and hammam treatment rooms, to massage tables on the beach overlooking the ocean.
Cost: Starting at 45 euros and up for treatments and packages
Hours of Operation: By appointment
Time spent: 2+ hours
After the spa, make your way to the airport in Bastia, and prepare to depart from your wonderful trip.
As you can see, Corsica is an island of many lives. It offers a rich history and sites that are well preserved, and tell a story about the island and its inhabitants. It has a rustic yet beautiful cuisine with nods to both Italian and French food. Perfect for the adventurer at heart, Corsica must be seen to be believed.
